We left very early in the morning. The roads were completely empty, and the sky was already turning that soft orange colour you often see in the northwest of Saudi Arabia. It’s a special kind of light that makes the landscape feel almost otherworldly.
The drive was long, it took us nearly 3 hours to get there. I didn’t expect to see anyone, since the place is quite remote. And I was right. When we arrived, there was no one around. This isn’t the kind of place where you want to run out of fuel or get stuck in the sand. Driving those long, empty roads really makes you realise how far away from everything you are. This part of the world feels truly remote.
Snowfall in Saudi Arabia? Welcome to Alaqan
The abandoned village of Alaqan is located in the Tabuk region, in the northern part of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. Once a customs port, it lies about 90 km from the Jordanian border. In winter, snowfall blankets the village’s landscapes with a white mantle, earning it the reputation and nickname of ‘the Snow City’
Thanks to its elevation and proximity to the mountains near Jabal Al-Lawz, Alaqan experiences colder winters than much of the surrounding region. Jabal Al-Lawz is another place where snowfall attracts visitors during the winter season.
Limited sources, untapped region
There are very few online sources about the abandoned village of Alaqan, most of which are only available in Arabic. For my research, I relied on Arabic articles that my Saudi friend sent me. Why is this region not yet very touristy? It’s also worth remembering that Saudi Arabia has only been open to non-Muslims since 2019. Tourism is still underdeveloped, particularly due to a lack of infrastructure in certain areas. The NEOM region is in the spotlight with major ongoing projects, such as The Line, a 170 km linear city stretching from the Red Sea to the NEOM boundary.
Alaqan: a historic village on the edge of the Gulf of Aqaba
The village of Alaqan is located 170 km northwest of the city of Tabuk, near Haql. Haql is the small port town close to the Gulf of Aqaba, just 5 km from the Jordanian border. The establishment of the first customs department in Alaqan was in 1926, during the reign of the Hashemite Kingdom of Hejaz.
Hashemite kingdom of Hejaz
The Hashemites are an Arab dynasty that held the role of guardians of the Muslim holy places from the 11th to the 20th century. As for the ‘Hejaz,’ it is the western region of the Arabian Peninsula, encompassing the provinces of Mecca, Medina, and Tabuk.
Wadi Alaqan has served as a passageway for Bedouins and travellers for millennia. The last inhabitants left Alaqan around 1974, marking the final chapter of a 5,000-year history marked by camel caravans.
The region is one of the coldest (relatively speaking!) in Saudi Arabia during winter and enjoys a moderate climate in summer. Trojena, an iconic mountain destination in NEOM, will be the perfect spot for a holiday once the project is completed!
The architectural heritage of Alaqan village
I found this place very interesting. That day, I was with a colleague. We first stopped at the Midian tombs. The drive to Alaqan Village was quite long. On the way back, we stopped in Haql. We began the visit with the houses directly opposite. I was surprised to have the site all to ourselves. In total, I think we stayed for about an hour. We wandered around the rocks and through a small canyon, and we even found inscriptions carved into the rock.
Petroglyphs
Petroglyphs are drawings and inscriptions that adorn cliffs and rocks: remnants of civilizations that once thrived. I discovered a few near the cliffs and canyon. The materials available on-site, such as stones, tree trunks, and palm fronds, influenced the design of the entire village of Alaqan. Archaeologists have identified some of these buildings as a store or a school. I must admit, I’m not sure which ones exactly!
Haql
After exploring the abandoned village of Alaqan, we continued driving north, heading toward Haql, a quiet town near the border with Jordan. It’s the last stop before the crossing, and the landscape starts to change as you get closer.
From Haql, there’s something truly special: you can see Egypt, Israel, and Jordan all in the same view. It’s one of those rare places where four countries meet.
Back home
The drive back took a while, as expected, but the scenery made it worth it. The colours of the sky and desert were stunning, orange, pink, and gold. There’s something about the light in this part of Saudi Arabia that makes even the longest drives feel special.
